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Chestnuts don't ask for a fireplace
"Chestnuts roasting on an open fire," sounds romantically old-fashioned and fun.
It's true; 'tiz fun. Growing up as a prairie child, I didn't know a chestnut from a walnut. I assumed, as most people do, that a nut was a nut. But chestnuts are different. They do grow on trees but they are not crisp and not high in fat as most nuts are. Instead they are starchy and don't behave like other nuts--more like a potato. As nuts go, they are large, sweet tasting (starch changes to sugar in the mouth) and full of meat.
Chestnuts are grown in the United States but most are imported. Dried chestnuts, cooked peeled chestnuts, and products such as chestnut flour and chestnut spread are available but found mostly in specialty markets or through gourmet food catalogues.
Very much un-gourmet, in Paris and in New York hot roasted chestnuts are wrapped in bits of newspaper and sold by street vendors standing over their pushcarts. They warm their cold hands while they roast the nuts. They taste wonderful and they warm your nose, your hands, and your heart, as you shop onward.
How to peel chestnuts:
Before you begin, score each chestnut with an "X" on its flat side. Make sure the cut goes all of the way through the shell. Soaking raw chestnuts in boiling water for about 30 minutes before roasting helps them cook more evenly and makes it easier to remove the skin. Cooking time depends upon how much moisture the chestnuts hold, size and type of chestnut.
Over coals: Place chestnuts in a single layer in a cast iron pan with holes, such as an old-fashioned popcorn pan. Hold over a wood fire or gas range, moving the pan frequently to turn the nuts. When the scored sides peel open, dump the hot chestnuts onto a thick cloth soaked in red wine or water. An old bath towel, several layers of old dish towels, or burlap all work well. Fold the cloth over and begin to rub and press the chestnuts. The peels should come off easily.
In oil: Pour vegetable oil or olive oil into a 14-inch frying pan, just to cover the base. Add chestnuts in a single layer, with plenty of room to shake and stir them around. Cook over medium-high for about 40 minutes. As soon as the "X" shells curl back, and some of the chestnuts are lightly blackened, they are done. Pour into a bowl or onto a baking sheet and when cool enough to handle, peel.
In the oven: roast scored chestnuts in one layer in a 350 to 400 F. oven for about 1 hour. When finished, proceed with the wine soaked towel or wait until cool enough to handle and peel each nut individually.
Test for doneness: insert a paring knife into chestnut; if it feels like a cooked potato, it's done.
Very Easy Chestnut Cake
This rustic, dense cake, appeals even to people who don't have a sweet tooth. Slice it thin and serve with a fruit compote, cheese or just as is with a hot cup of tea or coffee.
1 1/2 cups chestnut flour*
3 tablespoons melted butter
2 cups water
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup blanched and slivered almonds
1 small sprig rosemary
Preheat oven to 350 F.; grease an 8- or 9-inch pie pan. Combine the chestnut flour, butter, water, raisins and almonds in a bowl and stir well to combine. Pour into pan and press the rosemary on top. Bake for about 45 minutes or until golden brown on top and sides. Makes 8 servings.
*Note: you can make your own flour by peeling the chestnuts (see above) and pureeing the nuts.
Braised Chestnut Chicken
Use dried mushrooms of any kind, or use fresh. If there is no fresh ginger at hand, add some ground, dried ginger to the dish. Serve with rice or noodles.
1/2 cup dried shitake mushrooms
Vegetable oil
12 to 16 large chestnuts, peeled (see above)
4 scallions, trimmed and chopped
1 piece (2-inches) fresh ginger, peeled and minced
2 to 3 pounds bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
1/4 cup soy sauce
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in skillet. Add scallions and ginger, stirring for 30 seconds over medium heat. Reserve about l/4 cup of mushroom soaking liquid and add drained mushrooms to the pan. Cook, stirring, until lightly brown, about 2 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon; reserve. Place chicken pieces in same skilled and brown well on all sides, then add mushroom mixture to pan, along with soy sauce, reserved mushroom-soaking liquid (or white wine if using fresh mushrooms), and chestnuts. Stir well, cover, and turn heat to low. Simmer 20 to 30 minutes, adding water if mixture dries out; dish is done when chicken and chestnuts are tender and sauce it slightly thickened. Makes 4 servings.
Chestnut Risotto with Squash
A touch of cream Sherry or Port or Madera or other sweet wine amplifies the sweetness of the nuts and squash. If you prefer a less sweet wine, any white table wine will do.
6 cups chicken broth
1/4 cup wine (see above)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into l/4-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups (10 oz.) Arborio rice
2 cups, peeled chestnuts, chopped (canned can be used)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or l/4 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon fresh marjoram or l/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Bring chicken broth and wine to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low; cover and keep warm. Heat oil and 2 tablespoons butter in heavy saucepan. Add onion and squash; cook until onion is translucent, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Add rice; stir until rice is translucent at edges but still opaque in center, about 3 minutes. Add 1 cup warm broth, simmer until almost absorbed, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add more broth, 1 cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding next until rice is just tender, stirring frequently, about 25 minutes total. Stir in chestnuts, thyme and marjoram (correct seasoning to taste). Remove from heat, stir in remaining butter, cheese and parsley. Season with salt and pepper and serve. Makes 6 first-course servings or 4 main course servings.
Where did "that's an old chestnut" (meaning on old joke) ever come from?
PAST RECIPES
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