Tomato season isn't over until the fat lady sings

Tomatoes have to everyone's favorite fruit of the vine. Isn't it wonderful that they hang on to those vines until Jack Frost points his cold finger on the gardens of the world at which time (hopefully) the vines have been stripped and the tomatoes are safe and sound, wrapped in newspapers and stored in a cool place. At least that is the way all of my gardening friends deal with too many tomatoes and not enough time.

We all know that fresh from the vine picking gives tomato lovers the most flavorful tomatoes but what is amazing recently is the resurgence of "heirloom tomatoes." Heirloom is just what the name implies--old-fashioned varieties not bred to travel, just bred to challenge your taste buds. Who was holding on to all of those antique seeds?

Freezing tomatoes for quick storage

Overwhelmed? Put off coping with the tomato harvest.

1. Slip tomatoes, whole, into resealable plastic freezer bags and slip the bags into the freezer. When you are ready to use any of the frozen orbs, dunk while still frozen, into boiling water. The skins will instantly slip off. Great for use in meatloaf, pasta sauce, soup, stew. When thawed they become too soft for slicing, but you knew that, of course.

2. Freeze leftover tomato sauce in ice cube trays. Extract cubes and store them in plastic freezer bags. Pop a cube into a pot of cooking food for a tomato hit.

How to oven-dry tomatoes

Use the very ripest tomatoes. They will be much more flavorful than store-bought varieties. Use enough sliced tomatoes to fill 2 baking sheets.

2 to 3 pounds cherry or plum tomatoes
OR
5 pounds full size tomatoes
Salt
Olive or canola oil

Cut cherry or plum tomatoes in half. Salt them lightly on cut side. Arrange them cut-side down on oiled baking sheets, making sure they do not touch. Cut full-size tomatoes crosswise into thin slices, and salt them lightly. Arrange slices on oiled baking sheets. Preheat oven to 150 F., Cook until the color darkens and they feel dry to the touch but still supple, about 6 to 8 hours. Any damp spots will mold, so continue to cook until they are fully dried. Store in a cool, dark place in sealed plastic bags or glass jars.

What fun it was be in Sonoma County, Calif., for the Kendall-Jackson Annual Heirloom Tomato Festival. A pleasure because there were 198 different varieties on display and available to taste, and because there were eight seminars on everything from growing heirloom tomatoes to "How to Pair White Wine With Food." There were also a lot (maybe 30 to 50) food stands with famous restaurants giving samples of dishes made with tomatoes. There was even country western music by the "Laughing Gravy Gang" and they had home-grown some pretty funny tomato-based music.

I heartily recommend a trip to Santa Rosa, Calif., (and a stay at the Vintners Inn) if you have California on your mind for 2008. The person to contact regarding the festival is George Rose, VP, Public Relations, Kendall-Jackson. Address: 425 Aviation Boulevard, Santa Rosa, CA 95403.

There is a beautifully illustrated cookbook called "The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook," by Mimi Luebbermann, which sells for $16.95. If you don't have heirloom tomatoes at your fingertips, I suspect that other tomatoes can be substituted. The publisher is Chronicle Books, San Francisco. Here is a sampling of their recipes.

Tomato Coulis

This lightly cooked tomato sauce is excellent as topping for pasta, pizza, fish or grilled vegetables.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and seeded
2 sprigs basil
Pinch of salt
Pinch of sugar, optional

Heat olive oil over low heat and sauté garlic until fragrant. Add remaining ingredients and increase heat to high. Cook, stirring frequently, until tomatoes begin to soften. Remove from heat and discard basil. Press tomatoes through a sieve into bowl using the back of a large spoon. Let cool. Use now, or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. Makes about 2 cups.

BLT Salad

America's favorite sandwich jumps into the salad bowl.

Leaves from 1 head butter or leafy lettuce
2 large tomatoes, sliced
1 avocado, pitted and diced
1 cup Buttermilk Dressing (recipe follows)
8 slices bacon, cooked until crisp, then crumbled

Buttermilk Dressing:

1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1 egg yolk
1 small shallot, coarsely chopped (or 2 scallions)
1 cup virgin olive oil
1 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons minced fresh, parsley
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
Salt and pepper, to taste

Divide lettuce leaves among 4 salad plates. Top with tomato slices, sprinkle with avocado and drizzle each plate with 1/4 cup dressing. Top each plate with crumbled bacon. Makes 4 servings. Buttermilk Dressing: Blend red wine vinegar, egg yolk and shallot. With blender or food processor running, gradually add olive oil to emulsify. Add remaining ingredients and pulse to combine. Cover and refrigerate leftover dressing for up to 3 days. Makes 2 1/4 cups.

Tomato Bread Pudding

Simple ingredients suddenly, miraculously, become a lighter-than-air soufflé, without separating eggs and beating whites. Try this dish as an accompaniment to grilled or roasted meats.

2 pounds red heirloom tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
1/4 cup white wine, Zinfandel preferred
1/4 cup raisins
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
3 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 pinch cayenne pepper
1 loaf (1 pound) day-old bread, crust on, cut into 1-inch cubes.
4 tablespoons butter, melted
1 cup (4 oz.) shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Preheat oven to 400 F. Grease an 8- by 12-inch baking dish. In small saucepan, combine tomatoes, wine, raisins, basil leaves, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce and cayenne pepper. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute. In a large bowl, toss bread cubes with butter and cheese, then add tomato mixture and toss again. Spread mixture in prepared baking dish in an even layer and bake until nicely browned, 25 to 30 minutes. To serve, cut into 6 pieces and serve warm. Makes 6 servings.