Homemade ice cream is a red hot favorite

Ice cream weather is upon us and now is the time to dive into making the one dessert that no one in their right mind can say 'no' to. I grew up with homemade ice cream three times a year and not one of them was in the summer. Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's were when the family feasts were held and the last course never changed. My uncle Bill headed for the basement and churned up pineapple sherbet, which was actually not sherbet at all. It was made with heavy cream and a little milk. Heavy cream in those days was cream so rich in butterfat that it had to be spooned out of the jar to measure it. It was sooooo good.

In today's world we have fuss-free ice cream machines with electricity both chilling the mixture and churning it into ambrosia. You don't need blocks of ice, heavy duty salt, and a relay of Uncle Bill's to turn the crank.

Not to be plugging a brand but finally Cuisinart has come up with an ice cream maker with a self-refrigerant and with a price tag that won't send chills down your spine and into your pocketbook. It cranks itself.

But, ease isn't the only reason to consider making your own ice cream. At home you can make 1 1/2 quarts for the price of three scoops in a fancy shop. And, you can devise your own custom creations with mix-ins like candied nuts, herbs, coffee, fancy chocolate bits, fruits in season (cooked or pureed first), or any figment of your imagination. When you make it yourself you know you are using real lemons, not lemon powder or not dried strawberry seeds to make lickers think the ice cream was made from fresh strawberries. These are only two of the tricks used in making cheap commercial ice cream.

Ice creams are roughly divided between those made with eggs and those without. Eggs make ice cream more voluptuous, with better flavor, better holding power, and it's not going to be as icy. It doesn't cause brain freeze. It only takes five minutes to make custard, but if you don't watch it carefully for five minutes it can curdle.

Eggless ice cream is called "Philadelphia style" and is preferred for fresh fruits as you get more of a strawberries-and-cream flavor than when using an egg custard with the fruit. The good news is that the ice cream can be made with any ratio of cream to milk, with or without an egg custard. So worry not. It is not like baking a cake because you really cannot fail. If you want a richer mouthfeel, bump up the cream or sour cream. If you want to let the fruit speak, replace some of the cream with milk.

However, don't mess with a recipe's sugar recommendation. Sugar contributes to the silky texture and without enough sugar the mixture freezes too hard.

Tips for making outstanding ice cream:

1. Don't use ultra-pasteurized cream. The super-high heat treatment extends the shelf life but compromises flavor. Use pasteurized heavy cream instead.

2. Strain your hot custard. You want to remove any bits of egg that might have coagulated.

3. Remember that freezing mutes flavor. Your ice cream mixture should be a little stronger in flavor than you want the finished product to be.

4. Salt. A pinch of salt heightens flavor.

5. Ripening. Let the ice cream rest for a few hours before serving to make it easier to scoop.

6. Softening improves flavor. Ice cream tastes better when it's not freezer cold. Move it from the freezer to the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving it.

7. Don't over-fill canisters. Two-thirds full should be about right. As the machine churns it is incorporating air and increasing volume.

8. Don't stop churning too soon. Wait until the ice cream begins climbing up the side of the machine--then it is ready. A lot of people turn the machine off when ice cream looks solid, but the last 10 minutes are when you get the full volume.

9. Fresh fruit turns rock hard. Fresh fruit should be cooked with sugar or pureed with sugar before using in ice cream.

10. How to scoop. For a pretty ball or neat serving dip your scoop in COLD water. Hot water will soften the ice cream too much.

Philadelphia Style Vanilla Ice Cream

This style contains no eggs. It is a basic recipe and cooked or pureed fruits (or anything else) can be added.

3 cups heavy cream, or 2 cups heavy cream and 1 cup whole milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pour 1 cup of the cream into a medium saucepan and add the sugar and salt. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the saucepan and add the pod to the pot. Warm over medium heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and add remaining 2 cups cream, or remaining 1 cup cream and the milk. Add the vanilla extract and other ingredients. Cover the mixture and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator. When ready to churn, remove the vanilla bean. (You can rinse it and reserve for another use.) Freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions. Transfer to covered container and freeze until firm enough to scoop. Makes 1 quart.

Butter Pecan Ice Cream

If you are compelled to improve upon perfection serve with caramel or butterscotch sauce.

1 cup pecan halves
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
6 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces
4 egg yolks
1/8 teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 325 F. Spread pecans on baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool and then break nuts into coarse bits. Combine milk, cream, granulated sugar and brown sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugars dissolve and mixture is hot, about 5 minutes. In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Continue cooking until butter turns light brown; set aside. Whisk egg yolks with salt, gradually whisk in browned butter and then about 1 cup warm milk/cream mixture. Whisk the warmed eggs into the saucepan with remaining milk-cream mixture. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until custard thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon (175 F.). Do not let it boil or the eggs will curdle. Strain the custard into a bowl and cool in an ice bath. Cover the custard and chill thoroughly in refrigerator; whisk in the vanilla. Freeze the custard in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions. Add toasted pecans and churn for 1 minute longer to incorporate them. Transfer to a covered container and freeze until firm enough to scoop. Makes 1 quart.

Fresh ice cream needs a good freeze!