Ingredient Title Chef Category

Goat doesn't taste like goat

If you think of goats as four-legged mowing machines, you are both right and wrong. They do munch their way through a wide spectrum of shrubs and undesirable plants that cattle won't eat (even poison oak). Their appetite for weeds keeps pastures in better condition than if only cattle dine there and they actually prefer dining on a hillside to the flat land.

An enterprising herdsman in the San Francisco area rents out goats and sheep to keep the city's famous hillsides clean and neat. They hills are too steep for mowers. It is quite a sight to see them calmly grazing in the middle of a bustling city. The owner regards selling them as meat just an added value.

Americans who haven't grown up with goat meat on the table tend to dismiss it, thinking that it is strong tasting and fatty. Actually the flavor is a cross between mild lamb and beef. And it is like veal in its tenderness and delicacy. Goat actually has a very mild flavor.

Goat raisers says that 6- to 8-month old goats are 10 to 15 percent fat, about half as much fat as the average lamb.

The size and age of the carcass indicates the meat's tenderness and flavor. Look at the color of the bone: younger animals have white bones; older animals' bones are more yellow. Younger and smaller animals yield more tender meat with milder taste, but have a lower ratio of meat to bone.

Fresh goat meat is best; the imported frozen meat tends to be a bit tougher and stronger, "gamy and sticky."

Treat goat must like you would lamb. You can even use the same recipes and probably your guests won't know the difference.

Greek Goat and Fennel Stew

Can be made from boneless shoulder, but bones add flavor to the sauce. Ouzo (Greek) and Pernod (French) are licorice flavored liqueurs. It is used here to reinforce the fennel flavor but it is not a vital ingredient.

2 pounds bone-in goat meat, sawed into 8 pieces by butcher
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
4 scallions, white and green parts, in 2-inch pieces
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1/2 cup minced fresh dill, or 1/4 cup dried, optional
1/2 cup minced fennel leaves, or 1/4 cup dried
2 medium fennel bulbs, in 6 wedges each
3 tablespoons ouzo or Pernod or 1/2 teaspoon licorice flavoring, optional

Season the meat all over with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large, deep skillet over moderate heat. When oil is hot, add the meat and brown well on both sides; set aside. When skillet has cooled, add garlic and return to medium-low heat. Sauté until garlic is fragrant, then add scallions, tomato paste, dill and fennel leaves. Cook, stirring for about 1 minute to dissolve crusty bits from bottom of skillet. Return meat to skillet. Add fennel wedges, tucking them between chunks of meat. Add 2 1/2 cups of water. Bring to a simmer, cover and keep simmering, but not boiling. Cook until goat is fork-tender, about 2 hours. Stir in ouzo or Pernod. If pan juices seem too thin, move goat meat and fennel wedges to a platter. Raise heat and simmer until juices are reduced. Return meat and fennel to skill to reheat. Taste and adjust seasoning. Makes 8 servings.

Goat Skewers

Delicious served with any accompaniments but in the Middle East most commonly served with hummus and often with grilled zucchini. You may want to grind the spices with a mortar and pestle or with your coffee grinder, before they meet the meat.

Spice Rub:

1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seed
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 1/2 teaspoons dried mint
3/4 teaspoon Spanish paprika (smoked if you can find it)
3/4 teaspoon black pepper
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 to 2 pounds boneless goat leg
1 tablespoon olive oil

Toast the cumin seed in a dry skillet over moderate heat, shaking often until it becomes fragrant and just begins to smoke. Remove from heat and let cool. Pound or grind. Stir together the cumin, oregano, mint, paprika, pepper and salt. Trim meat of all fat and sinew. Slide a knife paper-thin external membrane on the outside of the leg and remove it. Cut meat into 1 to 1 1/2-inch cubes. Toss with oil and then with the Spice Rub. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Don't grill until it is back to room temperature. Thread the meat on 4 metal or bamboo skewers. If using bamboo, soak in hot water for 30 minutes before using, so that they don't burn on the grill.

Hummus

Tahini is made like peanut butter except that it is made from sesame seeds. If you can't locate it you can grind sesame seeds and combine with olive oil. It won't be the same but you will have the sesame flavor.

1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (canned work fine)
1/4 cup tahini
1/3 cup lemon juice, or more
Water chickpeas we cooked, or canned, in
2 cloves garlic, minced to a paste with salt (use back of knife blade to do so)
1/2 teaspoon paprika
Salt, to taste

In a food processor combine the chickpeas, tahini, 1/4-cup lemon juice, 1/4 cup chickpea cooking liquid, garlic and paprika. Puree until smooth, adding more lemon juice and cooking liquid as need. Season with salt. Makes 4 servings.

No old goats allowed in your kitchen!

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