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Quick & Easy
By Beverly Barbour


Good eating worth quacking about

Tired of grilling the same old things? Nothing wrong with burgers and franks and most certainly nothing wrong with steaks from the grill. Chicken is good, too. But, have you thought of plucking a duck from the freezer and putting the heat to it. Farm raised duck breasts have less fat and fewer calories that a comparable cut of chicken, as do any ducks still lurking about in your freezer from your hunter’s autumn bag. Another plus for serving duck now and again is that the clever bird is a pretty classy thing to serve. If you don’t believe me check the price on a restaurant menu.


Duck Breast with Rhubarb-Strawberry Compote

The breasts can be cooked on the grill or on the range. The compote is good with any game bird any time. It is also good with ham.

3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
1 1/4 pounds rhubarb, cut in 2-inch pieces
1 pound strawberries, hulled and quartered
2 whole duck breasts (about 3 1/2 pounds) split in half to yield 4 breasts
Salt and pepper

Compote: Combine in a saucepan the sugar and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil over high heat to dissolve sugar and make a syrup. Lower heat when syrup comes to a boil and simmer without stirring, 3 minutes. Put the rhubarb in a baking dish large enough to hold 1 layer. Add the syrup and bake until rhubarb is tender but still holds shape, about 35 minutes. Cool 10 minutes before stirring in the strawberries. Duck: Score the skin side of each breast with a knife, down to the meat. Make 1/4-inch deep scores on the other side, then season the breasts generously with salt and pepper or rub with seasonings. Cook breasts on the grill or place a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the breasts, skin-side down, and cook 10 minutes lowering the heat if they begin to smoke; spoon off any excess fat in the pan. Turn and cook the other side until breasts reach desired doneness, about another 10 minutes for medium rare. Remove duck from pan, cover and let rest 5 minutes. Slice the meat thinly on the bias and serve with the compote (warmed or at room temperature). Makes 4 to 6 servings.


Rub A Duck

These two low-carbohydrate spice rubs make any duck landing on your grill a tasty duck indeed. Makes enough for 2 ducks, 4 half ducks, 6 to 8 breasts.

Lemon Pepper Rub
2 tablespoons lemon pepper
2 tablespoons black peppercorns, crushed
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped

Herb Rub
4 teaspoons oregano
2 teaspoons thyme
1 teaspoon savory, ground
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil

If frozen, thaw ducks in refrigerator overnight. Combine ingredients for either rub, and rub on duck halves. Grill or broil duck skin side down on rack over medium heat 10 minutes. Turn duck over and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes.


Crisp Braised Duck Legs with Vegetables

If you’re a leg man you know that duck legs can be as good or better than breasts and they are much less expensive. They do however require moist heat to tenderize the meat.

4 duck legs, trimmed of fat
Salt and pepper
1 large onion, diced
1/2 pound carrots, diced
3 celery stalks, diced
2 cups chicken stock

Put duck legs, skin side down, in a large skillet. Turn heat to medium. Heat oven to 400 F. Brown legs evenly, sprinkling them with salt and pepper. When browned remove to a plate. Drain off all but enough fat to moisten vegetables. Add vegetables to skillet; apply salt and pepper. Cook and stir until they begin to brown. Return duck legs to pan, skin side up, and add stock; it should come about halfway up duck legs but should not cover them. Turn heat to high, bring to a boil, and transfer to oven. Cook 30 minutes then lower heat to 350 F. Continue to cook until duck is tender and liquid reduced, at least another half hour. The duck is done when a thin-bladed knife pierces the meat with little resistance. When done, duck will hold well in a warm oven for another hour. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.


Braised Duck & Mushrooms

Duck breasts, legs, or whole ducks halved, wild or tame can be done this delicious way. The dish can be made ahead. If you do so leave out cream and discard herbs before refrigerating. When guests arrive bring mixture back to a simmer and reduce to desired consistency. Season to taste and add cream.

4 duck legs or breast halves
Salt and pepper
1 to 1 1/2 pounds mushrooms of any kind
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup chopped shallots or scallions
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs thyme
1 cup chicken broth
1 cinnamon stick
2 star anise
1 tablespoon cream, optional

Trim excess fat and skin from duck; score skin in diamond pattern making shallow cuts into fat, not flesh. Season well. Place pieces skin-side down in a large skillet (no oil is needed) over medium-high heat and sear. Turn pieces over after some fat has rendered and sear the other side. Reduce heat to low or medium-low. Turn pieces again so skin side is down. Cook until fat is fully rendered; skin should be crisp and nicely browned. Remove duck from pan and set aside. Discard fat or reserve for sautéing mushrooms. In same pan heat olive oil or some of the duck fat and sauté shallots until soft and translucent, then add garlic. Cook until you can smell the garlic; add mushrooms and cook a minute or two before adding wine, bay leaf and thyme. Return duck to pan, adding enough broth to cover about half way. Cover and cook at a low simmer about 1 hour or longer if you want the meat to be fall-off-the-bone tender. Add cinnamon stick and star anise during last 15 to 20 minutes of cooking. Discard seasonings and stir in cream. Makes 4 servings.

Shoot over to the market and pick up a bird or two.

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