Ingredient Title Chef Category

Fowl Play

Just as different cuts of beef, lamb and pork cook differently, so do different parts of a chicken. When someone tastes and unrecognizable piece of protein in a dish, if it is bland, neutral and doesn't have much character they say, "Tastes like chicken."

Poultry is not without character and it certainly doesn't have to be dull. As any farmer knows, if chicken is fed well and slaughtered and cooled correctly, it will taste better. Buying a well-treated bird is the first step in ensuring a delicious dish. Commercially raised birds tend to be bland with a softer texture than the range-roving birds with matching feathers.

Whole birds are always juicer
Another step in having a flavorful dish is starting with a whole chicken or turkey. The reason? The minute a bird is cut, it starts to purge. Juices and enzymes begin to leak out--and with them go the flavor, moisture and some of the nutrients. Just check the paper in the bottom of a package of chicken parts--damp and soggy.
Just as different cuts of beef, lamb and pork cook differently, so do different parts of a chicken, turkey or duck. Most often white meat will require only 20 to 25 minutes of cooking while dark meat will need another 20 minutes.

Dark meat is most versatile
Dark meat is probably more versatile than white meat and can be used in braised or stewed dishes, such as meatballs. Simple fresh breadcrumbs and egg hold the ground meat together. Parmesan cheese can be added for zing.

How to cook a bird so that the white meat is moist
Roasting whole birds on a rotisserie is simple and delicious. Season with salt and pepper --nothing more. The juice and fat of the bird will evenly baste the entire bird under the skin throughout the cooking process. Even if you don't have a spit you can simply put the bird on a roasting rack, and rotate it four times during the cooking and pre-carving process. Begin with the breast side down, which allows the thickest part, the thighs, to be at the highest place and pointed toward the hottest part of the oven, the back wall. After 20 minutes, turn the bird on one wing side, then the other side and lastly breast side up. Finally, when you remove the bird from the oven, rest it with the breast side down before carving to allow juices to flow to the drier white meat.

How to Roast a Hen

A hen is a chicken anywhere from 8 to 10 weeks old.

Olive oil or butter
1 hen, 3- to 4-pounds
Kosher salt
Pepper
2 sprigs oregano or thyme, if available

Preheat oven to 400 F. Rub chicken all over with olive oil or butter, salt and pepper. Place chicken breast side down on a v-rack over roasting pan. Roast 10 minutes. Turn heat down to 350 F and continue for another 15 minutes. Turn bird on one side and roast 15 minutes and then on the other side for 15 minutes. Turn heat up to 425 F, then turn the bird breast side up and roast for approximately 15 minutes. After 10 minutes begin checking the internal temperature of the bird with a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. You may need to roast up to 20 minutes. As soon as the temperature registers 150 to 155 F remove the bird from the oven. Tent the bird, breast side down, with foil and allow to sit at room temperature for about 10 minutes. Then cut into quarters or slice and serve. Makes 4 servings.

Chicken (or Turkey) Meatballs with Pasta

They can be served with a simple broth as the "sauce." Penne is my pasta of choice with this dish made from dark meat.

4 legs with thighs, skin and bone removed
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup finely minced onion
1 garlic clove, minced
2 fresh sage leaves, minced or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon allspice
1 egg
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper

Broth and pasta:
2 cups rich chicken/turkey broth, at room temperature
2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
1 pound pasta

Finely grind the chicken or cut into small pieces and pulse in the food processor. Set aside. In a separate bowl, combine breadcrumbs with milk; set aside. Saute olive oil, onion, garlic and fresh sage, until onions are tender. Stir in seasonings and combine with breadcrumbs. Set aside to cool. Add egg and stir vigorously. Add chicken, salt and pepper. Mix ingredients thoroughly or until mixture feels slightly tacky (a sign that it binding together). To taste, cook a small amount in skillet. Adjust moisture, salt and other seasonings. It should be slightly salty. Preheat oven to 450 F. Form mixture into 1- to 1 1/4-inch balls. Roll by hand to smooth the surfaces. Place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper. Place in oven and bake about 5 minutes. When they are firm to the touch, remove from oven. Meanwhile, bring broth to a boil and reduce by about 1/2 cup. Drop balls into broth and heat thoroughly. Add butter and swirl until melted. Meanwhile cook pasta and drain. Serve meatballs over the pasta along with grated Parmesan. Makes 6 servings; about 60 meatballs.

Don't Throw the Bones Away

One of the best things about buying the whole bird is having the bones to use in making your own concentrate of chicken flavor. Your butcher may be persuaded to give you bones to stretch your own supply. This must be cooked very slowly to extract the proteins, fat and other matter from the bones. About 2 1/2 to 3 hours should do it. Use as a simple sauce for pasta, add to vegetable, poultry, or meat dishes to enhance flavors.

4 to 5 pounds of poultry bones, hearts, necks, fat removed
Salt and pepper
1 medium onion, finely diced
1/2 cup diced carrots
1/2 cup diced celery
2 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
1 clove
1 cup white or red wine
1 quart chicken stock

Crack and break bones of fowl, you may be able to use large paddle on a mixer to make smaller. Place in a large pan or casserole with 4-inch sides. (Low sides will speed up evaporation.) Salt bones and place in pot over low heat to release liquid and fat. When a thin film of liquid coats the pan bottom turn heat to medium-high. Mash the bones to extract more juices. Allow to cook on medium-high for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring only to prevent burning--you want a layer of solids to caramelize slightly on the pan bottom. When all liquid has cooked off, add onion, carrot, celery, thyme, bay leaf and clove; lower heat. Cook until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally. Add wine and 1 1/2 cups of the stock, just to cover bones. Scrape bottom of pot to release solids. As this cooks down and begins to attach to pan bottom, add another cup of stock and again scrape bottom. Repeat. Add remaining stock; bring contents to a simmer cook for about 1 hour. Pour through a strainer and press to extract all remaining juices and solids. Makes about 1 3/4 cups. Can be refrigerated or frozen in ice cube trays.

Chicken is a great value economically, gastronomically and nutritionally!

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