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Winery opening continues segment expansionBy Larry Dreiling
Over 100 years ago, Kansas was home to over 5,000 acres of wine vineyards. That number shrank to next to nothing by the end of Prohibition, but with the passage of the Kansas Farm Winery Act of 1995 came measured growth in the viticulture industry. Kansas currently is home to 19 wineries, which combine to produce more than 67,000 gallons of wine and host thousands of visitors each year. Using locally grown grapes, berries and other fruits, these Kansas winemakers produce a wide variety of delicious favorites, including some not found anywhere else, according to the Kansas Department of Commerce. Kansas' vintners have received more than 300 international awards for their wines in recent years, often drawing comparisons to the celebrated wines of California's Napa Valley and the Finger Lakes region in New York. Passage of legislation in 2009 allows for sales of Kansas wines at approved Kansas farmers markets, wine manufacturing at farm winery outlets, and shipment of wine direct to Kansas' wine consumers. Kansas' farm wineries may ship directly to out-of-state customers who have purchased wine at the winery. "Kansas farm wineries also can sell to out-of-state customers. In turn, Kansas' consumers may have out-of-state wine shipped to them directly as long as that out of state winery has a permit from Kansas." The newest of these wineries is Diamond S Vineyard and Winery, with vineyards in Paradise Township of Russell County, Kan., and a winery and tasting room in Russell, Kan. While many of Kansas' wines are produced in the northeast corner of the state, Diamond S is the furthest northwest winery of them all. With just one year of production under their belts, owners Glenn and Elsa Schmidtberger have been earning plaudits from visitors who stop along Interstate 70 to try their inaugural varietals. Living history Glenn Schmidtberger grew up in neighboring Ellis County, Kan., on a farm near Victoria. His grandfather would make his own wines and taught a young Glenn how to make small batches of product using mostly tree fruits. "I've taken a lot of the knowledge my grandfather used in making wine when I was younger, and have tried to put it into the wines we're now selling," Glenn Schmidtberger said. A consulting engineer by training, Glenn continued to make small batches of wine for family and friends--when he thought about developing a winery as a retirement business. Twelve years ago, the Schmidtbergers bought a little over a half-section of farmland north of Russell and began a wheat, grain sorghum, barley, and hay operation. The idea for vineyards didn't really sink in until 2003, when the couple purchased 1,400 vine plants to begin the winemaking operation. In 2007 the Schmidtbergers had their first grape crush. They sold their first bottle of wine last May 29. While the vineyards are equipped with a drip-irrigation system, it has been active just one season due to sufficient rainfall. "I sank almost every dollar of my retirement fund and the farm into building the winery," Schmidtberger said. "Banks would not support this project. They'd say, 'Are you kidding, a winery out here in western Kansas?' But, I believe in the business, and I think we can make it successful." Adds Elsa Schmidtberger: "We've seen so much support already. People tell us they like the wines, and we've already seen a regular group of people who come by every two weeks to make purchases." The couple also recently began renting the vineyards of a deceased viticulturalist in neighboring Lincoln County, bringing their total working plant numbers to over 2,500. The Schmidtbergers say they have planted some excellent varietal grapes and are ready to offer traditional Chardonels, Cabernets and Merlots, along with Concords, Seyvals, Relinces and Catawas. Instead of branding their wines with the variety, as a prominent feature on the label, the couple has chosen to use names associated with Glenn's personal history. For example: The primary dry red variety is named Alexander for Glenn's grandfather. The dry white has the moniker Herzog, which is the original German town that became Victoria once its neighboring English community merged with it. "Glenn has a really strong feeling about family and history," Elsa Schmidtberger said, "and it comes through in how we've named these wines. We have a semi-dry white called Pinch Penny, which was the name of his dog when he was a kid." Creating an experience A small operation like Diamond S Winery depends in large part on the help of other Kansas wineries networking with each other to create the vibe that "visiting a Kansas winery can be an enjoyable experience." That's the work of KDC's Agricultural Marketing division. The staff at KDC helped the Schmidtbergers connect to a joint website, winesofkansas.com, as well as to other marketing opportunities such as the Amazing 100 Miles Tourism Coalition, which enables agribusinesses concentrated along the I-70 corridor between Salina and Hays, Kan., the opportunity to market their products to tour groups and others traveling along the highway. The couple also credits the Hays and Russell Chambers of Commerce and Convention and Visitors Bureau for their help in spreading the word so far about the winery. "This has really brought people in from all over," Elsa Schmidtberger said. "It's been just incredible who's come in so far. It's just the first year, and it will take time as we grow, but it's been great." One thing Elsa Schmidtberger has been adding to the business is on-site wine tastings--at everything from area civic clubs to ladies' groups. "The group will buy the wine from me and then I'll go present the product. I'll talk about the winery and what we do and what you can see. It's been a nice way of starting off to show what we do," Elsa Schmidtberger said. Adjacent to the winery are freshly planted vines that should be ready for wine crush in four years. That should give the Schmidtbergers time to build up their agritourism operation, including a tasting deck and a new gazebo for holding parties and small weddings. The next project, however, is the development of a brewery. The Schmidtbergers are planning to grow all the things needed for beer, including tough-to-grow hops. Hops are primarily grown in just three U.S. states--Washington, Oregon and Idaho-- primarily because of the length of days in that part of the country. "I've got several beer recipes that I'd like to produce and bottle," said Glenn Schmidtberger, who plans in two years to fully retire from his engineering work to concentrate on the winery and upcoming brewery. "I have 10 products I'd like to produce, from a pilsner to a wheat-honey beer to a pale ale and a nice product similar to a Corona. I'm still experimenting with a dark stout. I think I've found one beer that I'll use as a product to test mine against, so that's the next one I've got to work on. "I think as people begin to see that the winery is successful, we will find the financing to build a brewery and restaurant." "There's a lot of projects ahead," Elsa Schmidtberger said, "and we really are looking forward to learning more and to making the business grow." To learn more about the Schmidtbergers' operation, visit diamond-s-wines.com. Larry Dreiling can be reached by phone at 785-628-1117, or by e-mail at ldreiling@aol.com.
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