Soybean seed treatments continued...
By David G. Hallauer
Meadowlark District Extension Agent, crops and soils/horticulture
Numerous seed treatment fungicide active ingredients are available, but they all are either protectant (effective only on the seed surface for 7 to 10 days) or systemic (absorbed by the seed and translocated for 14 to 21 day protection). Contact products include captan, PCNB, and thiram. Systemics include: azoxystrobin, carboxin, fludioxonil, mefanoxam, metalaxyl, thiabendazole and trifloxystrobin. Mefenoxam and metalaxyl are effective against Pythium and Phytophthora and should be used in no-till plantings prior to May 31 (May 15 in conventional till). These two chemicals are very closely related, and are marketed under trade names such as Apron XL and Allegiance. The other products mentioned above are effective against Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Predicting what disease you might see can be a problem so select broad spectrum products. A number of these are available on the market.
Seed treatments can be applied commercially or as a hopper-box/planter-box treatments according to their label. Commercially applied treatments tend to be cheaper and the seed is more uniformly covered--a must for good results. The downside--if the seed doesn't get planted, you usually can't take it back.
Seed already delivered can be treated on farm. When doing so, plan to use a newer generation systemic rather than a contact all by itself.
Be aware of rhizobial inoculant interactions as well. Check product labels as not all seed treatment fungicides are compatible, particularly some of the older materials.
Enough flies to move a house
That's a statement some of you might be thinking of making due to the fly populations seen in the area this spring.
We generally refer to these pests as attic flies, a non-technical term describing flies in the home. More specifically, we are likely dealing with the face fly. Fortunately, these flies are more nuisance than anything. They don't multiply in overwintering sites, rather their survival is only about two percent on average. That doesn't mean they aren't a nuisance and while they don't do much damage, they do attract carpet beetles that may be a problem in the future.
Its pretty hard to keep attic flies out of your home, and were you to try, you probably would have had more success last fall than trying too much now. Flies need an entry hole of some type to get in, so sealing cracks and crevices is your best option. Chemical control where flies congregate before entry is also possible.
This time of year, you can use aerosol space sprays containing pyrethrins, tetramethrin, or resmethrin to kill flies. Sweep up with a broom or sweeper. In tightly enclosed rooms or attics, hanging resin strips impregnated with dichlorvos can do some good. These strips emit vapors that can penetrate cracks and crevices, but they should be limited to seldom used areas because of this. Do not use in nurseries, kitchens, restaurants, or any area where food is prepared/served. Avoid insecticide use in rooms where infants, ill, or aged persons are confined.
For information on attic flies, request MF-2745 from your District Extension Office.