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Last alfalfa harvestBy David G. Hallauer Meadowlark District Extension Agent, crops and soils, Horticulture Kansas
The longer an alfalfa stand persists, the greater its profitability. Stand persistence depends upon a number of management factors from the time of establishment through harvest. With this growing season heading toward an end, its time to focus on the last alfalfa harvest of the year. Over the next few weeks, plants should start storing carbohydrates for winter survival. The last cutting has to be timed properly for this to occur. If root reserves are not replenished adequately before the first killing freeze (24 to 26 degrees), the stand is more susceptible to winter damage than it would be normally. That could result in slower early growth next spring. With that in mind, the last cutting should be made so there are eight to 12 inches of foliage, or four to six weeks of growth time, before the average alfalfa killing freeze date. For us here in northeast Kansas, we're looking at an early to mid-October time frame. If we do receive good rain in September, there may be the temptation to harvest the forage again later if significant growth has occurred. Cutting at that time will result in regrowth that may well reduce root reserves during a critical time. About the worst thing that could happen would be for the plants to grow about 3 to 6 inches and then get a killing frost, because the root reserves would be low. That could hamper green-up next spring. After a killing freeze, the remaining forage (if any) can be hayed safely. However, the producer should act quickly because the leaves will soon drop off.
Lawn seeding tips A successful lawn seeding program is a multi-faceted approach. Start by seeding evenly by carefully calibrating the seeder or by adjusting the seeder to a low setting and making several passes for even distribution. Seeding on the heavy side with close overlapping is better than missing areas altogether, especially for the bunch-type tall fescue, which does not spread. Multiple seeder passes in opposite directions should help avoid this problem. Next up--seeding rate. Aim for 6 to 8 pounds of tall fescue seed per 1,000 square feet for new areas. About half as much for overseeding. Too much seed results in a lawn more prone to disease and stress damage. Too little seed can result in clumpy turf that is not as visually pleasing. Establishing good seed to soil contact is essential. Slit seeders achieve good contact at seeding by dropping seed directly behind the blade that slices a furrow into the soil. Packing wheels then follow to close the furrow. The same result can be accomplished by using a verticut before broadcasting the seed, and then verticutting a second time. Core aerators can also be used to seed grass. Water newly planted areas lightly, but often, keeping soil constantly moist but not waterlogged. During hot days, a new lawn may need watered three times a day. If watered less, germination is slowed. Cool, calm days may require watering only every other day. As grass plants come up, gradually decrease watering to once a week if there is no rain. Let the plants tell you when to water. If you push the blades down and they don't spring back up quickly, its time to water. Once seed sprouts, minimize traffic (foot, mower, dog, etc.) until the seedlings are a little more robust and ready to be mowed. Begin mowing once seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall. 9/8/08 Date: 9/4/08
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