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Soil testing part of good field managementBy David G. Hallauer Meadowlark District Extension Agent, crops and soils/horticulture Kansas Most laboratories offer soil tests for any nutrient you could ask for. Which are of value? A good foundation program consists of, at the very least, pH, phosphorous, and potassium. These basic building block nutrients, used in combination with nitrogen according to yield goal, are the nutrients we are most concerned with providing for adequate plant growth and development. Testing for these nutrients should be done by pulling samples to a six inch depth. If in a no-till situation, and stratification is of concern, a zero to three and three to six inch sample might have some value as well, particularly from a pH standpoint. Zinc is typically of less concern, though we seem to see some deficiency. Like P and K, it is tested for using a zero to six inch sampling technique. Organic matter is sampled for from zero to six inches as well. KSU soil test recommendations assume an average organic matter of approximately two percent for most purposes. Knowing where you stand in relation to that standard can change nitrogen rate, so there is certainly value in knowing what your standard value actually is. Nitrate and sulfur differ from the aforementioned nutrient tests due to their mobility. While shallow (0 to 6-inch) sampling will yield useable results, the most accurate information comes from samples to a 24-inch depth. Because of the mobility of these nutrients, sizable credit for their presence in the soil profile may be accounted for if a deep sample is obtained. Other nutrients tend to be of less value for most of our typically grown crops. In most cases, deficiencies have not been noted for many of them. Further, there has been some attention given in the past to calcium and magnesium levels, and their ratio. There is very little research evidence to support any effect, either positive or negative, of the soil Ca:Mg ratio on crop production and yield. Thus, we do not suggest the use of the Ca:Mg ratio concept for a nutrient application or liming program. Winterizing roses Though most shrub roses are hardy in Kansas, hybrid tea roses can be more tender due to their genetics. These roses need protection to reliably survive Kansas winters. To provide protection, mound soil/compost 8- to 10-inches high around each plant (bring soil in from another part of the garden rather than from between plants to avoid root damage that could make them more susceptible to cold.) This should be finished by Thanksgiving. After the ground has frozen, add a 4-inch mulch of straw, leaves or hay for further protection. Do not add the mulch before the ground freezes or mice may invade and feed on the roses over the winter. This covering will help moderate the cold and prevent warm days during the winter or early spring from stimulating growth that is tender to returning cold weather. Excessively tall canes should be pruned to a height of 36 inches and tied together to prevent them from being whipped by strong winter winds. Wind can damage the crown of the plant or loosen the surrounding soil. Next spring, remove coverings before new growth starts. Cutting back shrubs Should you cut back shrubs. Though light pruning and/or removal of dead wood is fine this time of year, severe pruning should be left until spring. Keep in mind that even light pruning of spring-blooming shrubs such as lilac and forsythia will reduce flowers for next year. 11/24/08 Date: 11/18/08 Advertisement
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