All choked up

Growing up on the prairie, I never thought that I would one day love eating thistles. They were the enemy and certainly not anything that a farmer would deliberately plant and raise. But California with its large population of emigrants from the Mediterranean and its dry climate now produces 90 percent of America's artichokes and has taught us how to love this sturdy vegetable.

Artichokes come to the table in many guises and even the babies are delicious. Though they're called babies, these small artichokes are actually fully mature artichokes that have grown low on the stalk in the shade of leaves of the artichoke plant.

Unlike their larger siblings, whose higher placement on the stalk exposes them to the sun, baby artichokes are entirely edible with just a little trimming. The big fellows are more difficult to eat as the meat is stored at the base of the leaves and you have to scrape it off with your teeth--a messier eating process. But fun.

Trimming the babies

Use a very sharp knife.

1. Cut off the steam at the base of the artichoke.

2. Peel back and snap off the leaves all around the base until you reach the tender layer that are yellow at the bottom and green at the top.

3. Cut off the top third of the remaining leaves (the green part). With a sharp knife, trim off all of the remaining green, fibrous material from around the base of the artichoke.

Trimming the big guys

Use a very sharp knife and sharp scissors.

1. Cut the stem close to the bulbous body so that the vegetable will sit flat on its bottom.

2. With scissors trim away the pointed, sharp end of each leaf.

Pasta with Baby Artichokes

Use pasta of any shape and use prosciutto, ham or sausage of your choice. Clean leeks but cutting off root ends and dark green leaves. Cut leeks in half lengthwise and rinse well under running water, flipping layers to remove grit. Thinly slice crosswise.

1 garlic clove, peeled
4 ounces bread with crusts removed
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
3 cups thinly sliced leeks, scallions or mild onions
1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper
2 pounds baby artichokes, rinsed, trimmed and quartered (see above)
1/2 cup dry white wine
12 ounces pasta
2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, ham or cooked sausage
1/4 cup chopped parsley

Mince garlic. Make coarse crumbs from the bread. Pour 1/2 tablespoon oil into a frying pan and when hot, add crumbs; stir often until crumbs are crisp and golden. Set aside. Put butter and remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in frying pan (with sides at least 2-inches high) over medium-low heat. Add leeks, salt and pepper; stir occasionally until leeks are very limp and starting to brown. Add artichokes, 3/4 cup chicken broth and the lemon juice; increase heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Cover; cook until artichokes are tender when pierced, about 10 minutes. Uncover and cook until liquid is evaporated and mixture begins to brown. Stir in wine, scraping bottom of the pan to release browned bits. Cook until liquid is almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Stir in 1/4 cup broth; if mixture appears dry, add a little more broth. Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and stir into artichoke mixture along with prosciutto, parsley and breadcrumbs. Makes 4 servings.

Roasted Artichokes

A grapefruit spoon is a handy tool for removing the hairy choke from inside the artichoke. Be sure to trim the leaves first as their pointed tips are sharp. To cut oven time you can partially precook in microwave.*

4 fresh artichokes
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon dried oregano or 3 tablespoons fresh
1 cup water

Preheat oven to 400 F. Cut the stems from artichokes. Trim off about 1/2-inch of the top and then with scissors clip the sharp points from the leaves. Scrape the choke from the center (not easy to do). Combine the remaining ingredients (except water). Divide the mixture into 4 portions, spooning a portion into each artichoke, both in the center and throughout the leaves. Place the artichokes, stem side down, in a Dutch oven or deep oven-proof skillet, add the water, cover and bake 35 to 45 minutes, or until leaves come away easily.

*To partially precook, microwave in a dish to which you add 2 tablespoons water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 8 minutes (2 minutes per artichoke).

Serve hot or cold. Makes 4 servings.

Sauteed Baby Artichokes with Garlic and Olive Oil

This is quick and easy to make and it can be served as a hors d'oeuvre with toothpicks or as a vegetable.

12 baby artichokes
1 lemon
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste

Prepare baby artichoke as explained above. Cut in halves or quarters. Heat olive oil in a skillet; add garlic and artichokes. Sauté over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes on each side, until fork tender. Sprinkle with parsley, season with salt and pepper and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Who would ever guess that thistles are a delicacy.

7/28/08
None\7-C

Date: 7/21/08

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