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Tomatoes vs spider mitesRivalries are always so much fun. Life is more interesting if there is a strong dislike between two contenders. The most common one in Oklahoma is the Red River Battle between OU and Texas football teams. When the game rolls around it seems to consume some people. This is how I feel every summer when the spider mites show up on my tomatoes--consumed with dislike. Spider mites are able to cause a lot of damage in a very small amount of time, especially to tomato plants. These mites are not a six legged insect, but rather an eight legged arachnid. Most spider mites have the ability to produce fine silk webbing. These plant wreckers are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4 mm) long when adults. So spotting them in the garden may be quite tricky to the untrained eye. Most commonly found on the underside of leaves, the mites may create fine webbing that appears as dust or dirt. Not all will produce a web, so it is best to be aware and recognize the damage. Many species of spider mites exist, ranging from the two-spotted spider mite to the spruce spider mite. However, the damage done will look the same. The tiny mouthparts of the pest are designed to pierce individual plant cells and remove the green colored contents. What is left behind appears as tiny yellow or white speckles. As these speckles appear in greater number, the entire leaf will take on a yellow or bronze cast. As the leaf loses all of its 'juices' to the spider mite, it will eventually brown and fall from the plant. In severe infestations the entire plant may be defoliated and die. If mites are suspected, samples may be brought to the OSU Extension Service in your county for a free diagnosis. All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females lay their eggs on host plants. The eggs will hatch after several days into the first stage, which is called the larval stage. Larvae are born with only three pairs of legs. They will go through two molting stages before the adult stage is achieved. The fourth pair of legs comes following the first molt. Syringing may be helpful in controlling these pests. This technique is done by applying a forceful stream of water to knock spider mites off the host plant. This may be done several times a week until control is achieved. It is best to spray the plants early in the morning. Horticultural soaps are also useful, especially when the control is needed on vegetable plants. To make your own solution of soap pesticide mix 2-4 tablespoons of dishwashing detergent and 5 tablespoons of vegetable oil with one gallon of water. If the syringing and the soap solution fail, there are miticides available to kill the population. It is imperative to use extreme caution and read the label when using pesticides. 7/21/08 Date: 7/15/08
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