Soilpreppartoflawnplantingp.cfm Soil prep part of lawn planting process
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Soil prep part of lawn planting process

By Randy Buhler

CSU Cooperative Extension agent, agronomy, Logan County

The usual Extension response for any planting project is to get a soil test first. That is fine for a high value and fast response crop. Unless you know or suspect you have a particular soil problem, spend your time and money on soil preparation for an improved buffalo grass lawn.

Selection of planting site for turf type buffalo grass should recognize the factors necessary for success. Lack of these factors means trying some other solution for your particular site. The number one factor to consider is the available sunlight. A minimum of 8 hours exposure with morning sun is critical. Longer exposure is more favorable. Shade will significantly reduce your stand and encourage weed growth.

All soil types except very sandy sites are suitable for buffalo grass. Loams and clay loams are the best soil types. High alkalinity and salinity are not suitable for successful turf type buffalo grass lawns. Does your planting site only grow kochia weed, or no weeds? In this case, get a soil test to be sure about your soil character.

Buffalo grass does not tolerate standing water, subirrigated soils, or seepy sites. Reform the soil surface to provide drainage, if ponding is a problem. Avoid planting into wet soil sites.

Improved turf type buffalo grass is more responsive to fertility than native buffalo grass. For most sites, an application of well-finished compost tilled into the soil is the better treatment. A one-inch deep layer spread over the site then tilled in is ample for many years of growth on our soils. A cubic foot of compost will cover 12 square feet. This amount is equivalent to 3 cubic yards per 1000 square feet.

Avoid feedlot manure, even if it has been in a pile for several years. Manure is too salty for establishing buffalo grass. Manure will cause salt-burn on the emerging plants, if they even manage to germinate and come up.

Another important aspect of site selection is past herbicide use on the site. Know what if any herbicides were applied to the site for the last four years. Soil sterilants are particularly long lasting and can wreck your new planting. Call the extension office for help on determining the safe period for past herbicide applications.

Buffalo grass should not be planted, plugged, or sodded until the soil temperature reaches and sustains a temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Too early planting results in poor germination and emergence. This gives weeds a head start and multiplies your establishment problems.

After applying compost and tilling the site at 6- to 12-inches depth, work the soil to achieve a vegetable garden quality seedbed. The soil should not be cloddy. Firm the soil with a drag or roller so that your footsteps do not sink more than one-half inch into the soil. After firming, pull a rake across the surface to make very small furrows about three-quarters of an inch deep.

You are now ready to spread the seed across the area. A rotary fertilizer spreader or seeder can be used on larger areas. If broadcasting by hand, be sure to go over the area twice. Travel perpendicular to the first passes with your second passes.

For very large sites, a special row planting method can be used to save on seed costs and enable mechanical weed control. Call me at the extension office (970-522-3200, extension 284) if you have need for this practice.

Now cover the seed by dragging a rake flat side down across the ridges and pack down with a roller. The result is to have most of the seed covered with one-quarter inch of soil and not deeper than one-half inch from the surface.

Prepare soil for plugging or sodding in the same manner. The final trip is to use a roller to firm the soil before you place your plugs or sod. A final trip over the site with a roller to firm the soil around the plugs or to seat the sod is a good practice.

Finish up the effort with a light irrigation, if available. For seed, a light watering each day for one week, then every other day for a week, then twice a week for two weeks should get your stand up and well underway.

4/21/08
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Date: 4/14/08


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